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St Francis Church, Cochin

St Francis Church in Fort Kochi is one of the oldest churches built by Europeans in India, founded by the Portuguese in 1503. Vasco da Gama died in Kochi in 1524 and was first buried here before his remains were taken back to Portugal. Plain and whitewashed, the church tells the story of four centuries of Portuguese, Dutch and British rule on this stretch of the Malabar coast.

St Francis Church Fort Kochi
Built
1503 (rebuilt later in stone)
Ideal time needed
About 30 minutes
Nearest railway station
Ernakulam Junction
Nearest airport
Cochin International

History

The first church on the site was a simple structure built by Portuguese sailors and traders under the protection of the Kochi raja. It was later rebuilt in stone and dedicated to St Francis of Assisi. When the Dutch captured Kochi in 1663 they turned it into a Protestant church, and under the British it became Anglican. Today it belongs to the Church of South India and is protected by the Archaeological Survey of India.

Vasco da Gama, who reached the Malabar coast in 1498, returned as viceroy and died in Kochi on Christmas Eve 1524. His body lay in the church for about fourteen years before being moved to Lisbon.

What to see

Inside, a gravestone on the floor marks where da Gama was first buried. The walls carry Dutch and British memorial tablets, and the long cloth fans called punkahs, once pulled by hand, still hang above the pews. The stepped gable front is a typical feature of early colonial churches on this coast.

Tips for your visit

Dress modestly and keep your voice low, as the church is still used for services, especially on Sunday mornings when visits may be restricted. Allow 30 minutes. The church sits among other Fort Kochi sights, so walk on to the Chinese fishing nets, Santa Cruz Basilica, the Dutch Cemetery and the Mattancherry Palace and Jew Town area.

How to reach

Fort Kochi is on the western tip of the city. Ernakulam Junction is the main railway station, and from there it is a taxi ride or a short ferry across the harbour. Cochin International Airport is roughly 40 km away. Once in Fort Kochi, the church is easy to reach on foot or by autorickshaw.

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