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St Mary's Church, Fort St George, Chennai

Inside the walls of Fort St George, St Mary's Church was completed in 1680 and is the oldest Anglican church east of Suez, sometimes nicknamed “Westminster Abbey of the East”. Among British buildings still standing in India, few are older. A visit takes under an hour and pairs well with the rest of the fort, making it a good first stop on a Chennai heritage walk.

Champakulam - St. Mary's Church - Cemetery
Built
1678–1680
Timings
9 am to 5 pm
Ideal time needed
About 1 hour
Nearest railway station
Chennai Central (about 3 km)
Nearest airport
Chennai (about 20 km)
Distance from Marina Beach
About 3 km

History

The fort itself was the first English stronghold in India, and the church was built to serve its garrison and merchants. Streynsham Master, the East India Company's agent at Madras, started building the church on 25 March 1678, and it was consecrated on 28 October 1680. The design is credited to one of the fort's master gunners, either Edward Foule or William Dixon. Because the roof was made bomb-proof, the church was used as a barracks and grain store during the French siege of Madras in 1758–59.

Later changes added a tower near the end of the 18th century, a steeple and two vestries in the early 19th century, and alterations to the gallery in the 1880s.

What to see

The building is broad and solid, with outer walls and a vaulted roof each close to four feet thick. Two wide aisles lead to the chancel, and a gallery on Burma teak pillars was once reserved for the Governor.

Behind the altar hangs a painting of the Last Supper in the manner of Raphael. The walls are lined with memorial tablets to soldiers, officials and their families. Elihu Yale, later benefactor of Yale University, and Robert Clive were both married here, and the naturalist and bird painter Elizabeth Gwillim is buried here.

Timings and tips

The church is generally open from 9 am to 5 pm. Fort St George houses government offices, so carry photo ID and expect a security check at the gate. Dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered, and keep your voice low if a service is on.

How to reach

The fort is on Rajaji Salai near the northern end of Marina Beach, about 3 km away. Chennai Central railway station is roughly 3 km from the fort, and Chennai airport around 20 km. Autos, taxis and city buses reach the gate easily.

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